Outdoor plants care
Outdoor plants ask different questions of you than indoor ones. Light is rarely the problem; weather is. Wind, rain, frost, and the relationship between sun and shade across the day will define what thrives where. The principles below apply across containers and small gardens; for specific varieties, ask the studio when you order.
Light
Direct sun
Water
Variable
Sourcing
Direct from growers
Pet safety
Mildly toxic
Difficulty
Moderate
How to care for it
Acclimatise gradually if the plant has been kept indoors. Place it outdoors for a few hours each day in a sheltered spot for the first week, increasing the exposure each day. Check the pot has drainage; outdoor pots without drainage waterlog quickly in rain. Position with the time-of-day sun in mind — a spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade suits many species better than full sun.
In summer, water more than you think you need to — pots dry quickly in direct sun and wind. In autumn, taper back. In winter, water sparingly and only when the soil is dry; cold wet soil rots roots. Feed monthly through the growing season with a balanced liquid fertiliser. Deadhead spent flowers regularly to encourage new blooms. Repot or replenish compost annually.
Yellowing leaves: often waterlogged soil after heavy rain — check drainage. Wilting in heat: the plant is genuinely thirsty even if the soil surface looks damp; water deeply and move to afternoon shade. Leaves nibbled at the edges: slugs or snails — copper tape around the pot or beer traps work. Powdery white film: mildew from poor air circulation — space plants out and avoid wetting the leaves.
Common questions
Frost-tender plants (geraniums, fuchsias, citrus, succulents in containers) should come in before the first hard frost — typically October to November. Hardy plants (most evergreens, traditional garden roses, many bulbs) overwinter outdoors. If unsure, check the variety; the studio can advise when you order.
Group pots together against a sheltered wall, wrap with hessian or bubble wrap, raise off the ground on pot feet so they don't sit in waterlogged trays, and move terracotta indoors if you can — clay cracks when wet soil freezes inside it.
Most container plants exhaust the nutrients in their compost within a year. Either repot with fresh compost each spring, or top-dress (scrape off the top inch of old compost and replace) and feed regularly through the growing season. Lack of sun, overcrowding, or too-large a pot are other common causes.
Yes — many do well with summer outside and winter inside. The key is gradual acclimatisation in both directions, over a week or two, so the plant adjusts to the change in light intensity and temperature without shock.
In hot dry weather, daily is often necessary for smaller pots; larger ones every other day. The wind dries pots faster than sun does. Check by lifting the pot — a heavy pot is wet, a light pot is dry. Water in the morning so the soil drinks before the day heats up.
Layer evergreens (box, dwarf pines, ivy) as the structural backbone, then add seasonal interest — bulbs for spring, geraniums for summer, ornamental cabbages for autumn, dwarf cyclamen for winter. The Moyses Stevens team can put together a planted arrangement designed for the season; ask when you order.
See also
